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It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

A directory of championship races from around the world Videos de todo el mundo 2021 Región 5 Regata de la OIM Corpus Christi Texas 27 de febrero - 1 de marzo de 2020. Campeonato del Mundo 2019 Brasil Heat 6 Flota A Heat 6 Flota E Heat 6 Flota B Heat 8 Flota A Heat 8 Flota B Heat 9 Flota A Heat 9 Flota B Heat 14 Flota A Heat 17 Flota A Heat 19 Flota A Heat 19 Flota B Heat 20 Flota B Heat 22 Flota D Heat 23 Flota B Heat 24 Flota A Campeonato Nacional Australiano 2019 Día 1 2a carrera de cabezas de serie Carrera 4 A Flota Carrera 2 A Flota Carrera 10 A Flota Carrera 5 A Flota Carrera 5 Flota B Carrera 3 Flota B Carrera 13 A Flota Regata Australia Sunshine Coast 2018 Día 4 Carrera 1 Serie 2 Día 4 Carrera 1 Serie 1 Carrera 4 Flota B Carrera de cabezas de serie 1 Carrera de cabezas de serie 2 Carrera 2 Flota B Día 1 Carrera 3 Flota D Campeones estatales de Queensland Carrera 2 A Flota Carrera 2 Flota B Carrera 15 A Flota Carrera 18 A Flota Abierto 2017 OIM Masters Holanda COPA LEIPZIG 2017 2017 nacionales australianos de la OIM Kogarah Bay I OM Worlds 2015 Foster City Último día 2012 Nacionales del Reino Unido en 2 Island RYC Día 1 Carrera 1 A Flota Campeonato del Mundo 2011 West Kirby Carrera 18 A Flota Carrera 23 A Fleet - Brillante carrera entre Peter Stollery 39 y Brad Gibson 42 Día 1 Dia 2 Día 3 Día 4 Dia 5 Día 6 Un poco de nostalgia

Antes de un evento Determina cuál es tu objetivo en la navegación Conoce tu reglas y tácticas de carreras Gestione su inversión con el cuidado mantenimiento de embarcaciones Navega rápido con la derecha puesta a punto y configuración del barco Conozca sus controles de radio Eficaz práctica de barco Asegure una configuración consistente usando listas de verificación Sepa como el el clima te ayudará Útil referencias

Fitting the sails onto the rig Iniciar sesión Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Poniendo velas en el aparejo Una conversación con mi hermano el otro día me hizo pensar en cómo debería funcionar la plataforma IOM. Ambos solíamos navegar en botes y yates. La mayoría de las veces navegamos en yates de aparejo fraccionado donde la parte inferior del mástil estaba controlada por obenques, esparcidores y correderas. La curva se fijó a los perros y se aumentó o disminuyó esa curva, utilizando el corredor, sin embargo, una vez colocado, el mástil era bastante rígido. El truco consistía en hacer que el mástil trabajara para usted por encima de los perros en la sección sin soporte del aparejo fraccionado. El escenario ideal fue así. Si golpea una ráfaga, la parte superior de la cabeza del mástil se doblaría, aplanando la parte superior de la vela mayor y abriendo la baluma para que el barco pudiera acelerar en la ráfaga. Tan pronto como amainara el viento, el mástil se enderezaría y se restablecería la energía. Una vez navegamos en un barco que tenía el equilibrio del aparejo exactamente correcto. Significaba que podía llevar más vela con mayor brisa y le daba una enorme ventaja competitiva. El barco ganó muchas regatas clave en alta mar y costera. Sin embargo, el aparejo IOM se encuentra entre un aparejo fraccionado y un aparejo de tope en un yate donde el estay de proa y el estay de popa se encuentran en la parte superior del mástil y la curva y, por lo tanto, el control de la baluma de la vela mayor se gestiona por completo mediante el ajuste de las correderas. Por supuesto, tiene otros ajustes en los yates que son importantes, por ejemplo, el pie de la vela mayor, el cunningham, etc., todos los cuales deben ajustarse a través de los rangos de viento, pero en este artículo solo me centraré en la flexión del mástil y el impacto en la vela mayor. La plataforma de la OIM se encuentra en algún lugar entre un mástil y un yate con aparejo fraccionado. .Nuestro estay se encuentra sobre los perros con un estay trasero en la parte superior del mástil. La geometría está configurada de modo que con la construcción de precurvatura en el larguero, enderezada por el estay trasero, se ponga tensión en el grátil y la línea de sanguijuela de la vela de proa. La posición de la línea de giro del foque con respecto a la plataforma asegura que la mayor parte de esa tensión descienda por el grátil del foque y no por la línea de la sanguijuela. La curvatura del mástil y, por lo tanto, la forma de la baluma de la vela mayor se controla en todo el ariete del mástil, la inclinación del esparcidor y la tensión en el backestay. La tensión de la baluma es controlada por la línea de la baluma. Queremos una configuración de aparejo que dé un poco de bocanadas para que el barco acelere y conduzca, en lugar de tacones y pérdida. Entonces, ¿cómo se puede lograr eso? Si lee todos los consejos clave sobre la configuración de la plataforma, aprieta la tensión de la cubierta lo suficiente para evitar que la cubierta de sotavento se ablande cuando está en contra del viento. Esto permite que el mástil se flexione un poco en bocanadas proporcionando aceleración. Si el mástil es demasiado rígido, el flujo de aire se detendrá y la embarcación no acelerará en el soplo. Inicie la configuración de su barco con el barco apuntando como si estuviera corriendo. Recorte el tirante trasero para que el mástil quede recto hacia adelante y hacia atrás. Coloque el pie de la vela mayor a una profundidad de 15 mm o lo que sugiera su planeador. Configure la tensión del kicker de modo que la baluma de la vela mayor esté ligeramente torcida con el listón superior justo afuera paralelo a la botavara principal. Revise ambas trasluchadas para asegurarse de que el mástil esté recto verticalmente. El giro debe ser el mismo en cada trasluchada. Luego apunte el bote como si estuviera en un latido. Supongo que ha configurado el rastrillo según el plano del barco con una vara de medir o una cinta métrica. Nuestro objetivo es colocar la vela mayor de modo que el listón superior quede paralelo a la línea central de la botavara ajustando el estay trasero y el ariete del mástil. Una vez configurado, debería haber poca necesidad de cambios en los rangos de viento que no sean ajustes de 1 mm en el backestay. En una reciente reunión de zoom con Brad Gibson para el Central Park MYG en los EE. UU., Brad habló sobre ajustar el backstay en más o menos 2 mm. No sé ustedes, pero en el pasado fui un poco más agresivo con el uso del backestay. Ahora entiendo más sobre la precisión de la configuración y sé lo que hacen los mejores, soy más cuidadoso. Con un poco de suerte, si ha hecho todo esto, tendrá un aparejo de aspecto perfecto, y si no ha exagerado la tensión de la cubierta, el aparejo funcionará para usted en las ráfagas. Hay suficiente información disponible sobre la configuración de la plataforma en la web, que debería poder lograr la configuración correcta la primera vez y, lo que es más importante, recrear esa configuración cada vez que navega. Aquí hay algunas imágenes para mostrar el impacto de los cambios de 1 mm en el backstay de la plataforma B. Empiece desde abajo Empiece por la parte inferior y aumente el conjunto de imágenes. Muestran el precurvado integrado en el mástil y luego el impacto gradual de hasta 5 mm de apoyo adicional adicional. Puede ver mejor el efecto en el ablandamiento de la lixiviación. Pruebe esto en su propio barco y vea cómo se ve su plataforma. Ignore el ajuste del foque ya que la baluma está demasiado apretada y la pluma podría aflojarse un poco. La próxima vez que pruebe esto, colocaré la cámara en un trípode para que el ángulo no cambie entre las imágenes. Mañana obtendré un conjunto similar de tomas para la plataforma A. Configuración de la plataforma: el impacto de 5 mm en la plataforma A Solo una breve publicación para reflejar mi juego con la plataforma A y mis pensamientos sobre configuraciones para diferentes condiciones de viento y corte. Vea las fotos a continuación. Por supuesto, en una brisa, el aspecto de la vela será ligeramente diferente. Una plataforma montada con 15 mm de profundidad de pie y mástil recto. Configuración para agua picada. Habrá pérdida de giro en una ligera brisa para acelerar sobre las olas. La imagen muestra cómo, comenzando con un mástil recto, cuál es el impacto de agregar 5 mm al soporte trasero en un aparejo A. El backstay de más de 10 mm provoca la distorsión de la vela Next Section Weigh and check measure

Building a hul on a male plug Components for the bow, stern and bulkhead, simply a glass and epoxy sheet laid on a flat board covered in packaging tape which is a great release agent. For the rudder and servo supports, I laid glass over strip wood wrapped in packaging tape to create a light rigid beam to bond across the boat. The hull is laid up in the same way as the plug. Pre cut the cloth and mark a centreline on the hull and the cloth. Allow for an overlap of 1 inch on the foredeck. I used West systems slow cure epoxy resin which in the Summer gave me about half an hours work time. Stop work when the epoxy starts to go stringy and clean your tools with Acetone before mixing a fresh pot of epoxy. I use Nitril gloves which I wash in acetone to remove any sticky epoxy. I also use a full face filter mask although this is not needed. Unlike Polyurethane, epoxy does not smell too bad To begin the layup, paint the hull with epoxy. Add the first layer of E cloth and saturate the glass with epoxy using the aluminium roller. Take your time and make sure you get rid of all air bubbles. I worked on the hull first and then turned the mould over to work on the deck. Allow a 1 inch overlap on the deck and cut any excess cloth away with scissors. Keep a jar of acetone handy to keep the scissors clean. I added more epoxy over the first layer of E cloth prior to adding the second layer. Roll out and finish as per the first layer. Repeat for the final layer of S cloth Wrap the finished hull tightly in Peel ply. When I built the hull in about 75 degrees, I had to mix a second lot of epoxy for the final layer of S cloth as the first lot started curing. Once hardened, remove the peel ply, then add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. Like the plug the hull will look a mess but will look great once sanded. Sand the hull so you can see through to glass but do not cut any fibres. This will make the hull as light as possible and ready for a top coat of 2 pack polythene which is done after fit out. Fix any faults/holes as necessary. Once happy with hull finish cut through the centreline of the the foredeck and stern deck. Brad suggested a knife but I used a fine cutter on a Dremel. Prise the hull off the mould. This process was much easier than I thought it would be. The whole structure is flexible so once off the mould so put in a jig to keep the designed shape. Termina la cubierta principal Tan pronto como el casco esté fuera del molde Consígalo directamente en una plantilla para sostener el casco. Recorté marcos de madera contrachapada usando los planos y los fijé en una tabla plana resistente. La plantilla se utilizará para alinear la aleta y el timón. Haga clic en cualquier imagen para ampliar la imagen. Bond the foredeck and stern deck What you need 5 minute epoxy Slow cure epoxy Bent piece of wire as long as the foredeck 1" glass tape Bow and stern plates The process Tape the the top of the previously cut foredeck and stern together with masking tape prior to bonding below. Sand the underside of the foredeck to provide a key for the 1"tape you are about to apply Bond the underneath of cut foredeck and stern deck with 1" fibreglass tape. Allow to cure and remove the masking tape. I put the glass tape underneath the deck and on top but I think you only need to bond underneath and fill the gap on top. To get the tape all the way up the foredeck, wet the tape with epoxy and roll up. Using the wire with a 1" bend at the end, to support the roll and unroll it right (with the hull upside down) to the end of the foredeck. Once unrolled it should sit flat and use the wire to move the tape if necessary. See image 4. Remember to put some peel ply over the top of the tape on top of the deck. Image 6. (This was probably an unnecessary step as I think the tape only needs to go on the underside.) The foredeck will be very strong because you will have 6 layers of glass including the overlay and the 1" tape. Slightly over engineered I think. Repeat the process on the stern deck. I had to put a plate across the stern and the next bridge as I had not finished the original layup properly. Image 8 and 9. Having taped on top of the foredeck I had to re apply 2 coats of high build epoxy and sand down. There is no need to do this if you bond underneath the deck only. I fitted 2 perpendicular end plates onto the jig so I could shape the bow and stern on the hull to be, one, vertical and two, at 90 degrees to the centre line of the boat. Image 10 Trim the bow and stern plate and fit with 5 min epoxy. Spot glue in place initially and then seal and fillet with epoxy and micro balloons. Une la cubierta de proa y la cubierta de popa Que necesitas Epoxi de 5 minutos Epoxi de curado lento Pedazo de alambre doblado tan largo como la cubierta de proa Cinta de vidrio de 1 " Placas de proa y popa El proceso Pegue con cinta adhesiva la parte superior de la cubierta de proa y la popa previamente cortadas con cinta adhesiva antes de unir la parte inferior. Ver imagen 5. Lije la parte inferior de la cubierta de proa para proporcionar una llave para la cinta de 1 "que está a punto de aplicar. Pegue la parte inferior de la cubierta de proa cortada y la cubierta de popa con cinta de fibra de vidrio de 1 ". Imagen 4. Deje curar y retire la cinta adhesiva. Pongo la cinta de vidrio debajo de la plataforma y encima, pero creo que solo necesitas unir debajo y llenar el espacio en la parte superior. Para que la cinta llegue hasta la cubierta de proa, humedezca la cinta con epoxi y enróllela. Usando el cable con una curva de 1 "al final, puede sostener el rollo y desenrollarlo (con el casco al revés) hasta el final de la cubierta de proa. Una vez desenrollado, debe quedar plano y usar el cable para mover la cinta si es necesario. Ver imagen 4. Recuerde poner un poco de peel ply sobre la parte superior de la cinta en la parte superior de la plataforma. Imagen 6. (Este fue probablemente un paso innecesario ya que creo que la cinta solo necesita ir en la parte inferior). La cubierta de proa será muy fuerte porque tendrá 6 capas de vidrio, incluida la superposición y la cinta de 1 ". Un poco más de ingeniería. Repita el proceso en la cubierta de popa. Tuve que poner una placa en la popa y el siguiente puente ya que no había terminado correctamente la bandeja original. Imagen 8 y 9. Habiendo pegado con cinta en la parte superior de la cubierta de proa, tuve que volver a aplicar 2 capas de epoxi de alto espesor y lijar. No es necesario hacer esto si se une solo debajo de la plataforma. Coloqué 2 placas de extremo perpendiculares en la plantilla para poder dar forma a la proa y la popa del casco para que estuvieran, una, vertical y dos, a 90 grados con respecto a la línea central del barco. Imagen 10 Recorte la placa de proa y popa y ajústela con epoxi de 5 min. Inicialmente, coloque el pegamento en su lugar y luego selle y filetee con epoxi y microglobos. La figura 8 muestra el ajuste inicial. Finalmente, retire el exceso de plataforma para que los agujeros sean visibles de acuerdo con el plan. Ver imagen 7 y 8. En la imagen 5, solo la cubierta de popa está en su lugar. En el próximo barco completaré la cubierta hasta el poste del enchufe. Ahora viene lo que creo que es la parte más difícil del proceso de construcción. Calificación y hacer un agujero en el casco para la aleta y pegar en una caja de aleta alineada y unirla a la cubierta y al mamparo delantero. Cuando construya mi próximo barco, agregaré imágenes del posicionamiento de las aletas. Haga clic en cualquier imagen para ampliar la imagen. The fin case, bulkhead and forward aft deck What you need 5 minute epoxy Slow cure epoxy Fin Fin case Rudder Rudder stock brass tubes Cross bars for rudder stock and rudder servo mount. Prepared forward part of the aft deck Cut out bulkhead shape to fit under fordeck 1"glass tape Various fittings, jib tack bolts, mast ram, mainsheet post, back stay bolt, mainsheet pulley blocks, fairleads to allow the endless mainsheet to go through bulkhead The Details Tape the hull into the jig so the shroud points on the deck are parallel to the base of the jig. Everything will be aligned to this. Measuring from the stern datum, mark the front and back of the fin hole on the outside of the hull. Then mark a centreline which you will have marked on the frames of the jig. This will get the correct alignment for the fin hole. Remove the hull and using the fin, mark the contour of the fin. Cut out the slot for the fin using a Dremel or similar being careful to cut well inside the line. Use sandpaper to open the slot to fit the fin exactly. Tape the hull back in the jig. With the fin in the slot, push the fin case over the fin so that the bottom of the case is lying on the hull. There are two measurements on the plan to align the fin, one shows the tip of the fin where is enters the bulb. This should be 330mm from the bottom of the hull and the other measures from the same fin tip to the bottom of the bow of the boat. If set up correctly the leading edge of the fin should be perpendicular to the waterline. Shape the bottom of the fin box and fin until this is achieved. Ideally the fin should fit all the way into the fin box. I used some string to determined the position of the tip of the fin. Reinforce the shroud bolt locations with half an inch of 1" tape and once dry fit the shrouds. There is a huge amount of strength with this design in this area and no further reinforcement is needed. Fit the shroud bolt now while you have access to the underside of the deck. Once the base of the fin box is shaped and the fin aligned, now is the time to dry fit the forward part of the aft deck and trim the top of the fin box until the deck fits snuggly. Spot glue the fin box in place with the fin in the box and support in the right position. Once fixed seal the fin box to the hull with 5 min epoxy and microballoons with a small fillet. Finally reinforce the fin box to the hull with 1"glass tape and epoxy. With the fin box in place, dry fit the forward part of the deck with the fin box and forward bulkhead. Once happy with fit, do a final check that the forward bulkhead is in the right place from the stern datum. Get this wrong and you will have issues with your mast ram. Spot glue with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon. With 5 min epoxy and micro balloon seal the bulkhead and seal where the fin box connects with the deck. Finally reinforce the top of the fin box with fin one inch tape. Finally glue the radio pot holder under the deck and seal with epoxy. In my first build I glued the pot on top which looks messy. Bond in the cross beams for the servo and rudder stock with one inch tape See image below for positions. Remember to sand the inside of the hull to create a good keyed surface. Drill the hole in the deck for the fin bolt and mast. Now is the time to check for leaks. Fill the depressed area of the deck forward of the radio pot with water and see if there are any leaks. Drill a 4mm hole in the hull for the rudder, with the central point located from the jig and distance from the aft datum measured off the plan. The rudder stock is 2 tubes of brass, one 5mm o/d and one 4mm o/d. The two tubes slot into one another and the rudder post goes inside for a very tight fit. Mark on the rudder brace bar a line which when a hole is drilled for the stock ensures the trailing edge of the rudder does not extend beyond the stern of the boat. The rudder stock will project a couple of mm above the cross bar. Drill a hole in the centre and ream it wide perpendicular to the hull. Fit the stock in place on the rudder and in the boat. Apply some 5 min epoxy with micro balloon to fix the top of the stock with the rudder exactly aligned with the keel. Leave to set, then seal the stock in the hull and reinforce the top if necessary. The worst is over. My first cross beam was so strong I saved weight by cutting it in half. The next cross beam will be much lighter. Paint the whole boat in 2 pack polyurethane top coat and lightly rub and t-cut to desired finish Fit the mainsheet post, backstay bolt, aft pulley for mainsheet, fairleads for sheet control through the bulkhead, setting these as low as possible so they don't interfere with the kicker on a run on port gybe. Fit the 4 jib sheet leads in the foredeck and the 3 tack bolts. Finally, drill a bung hole, push a needle through the centre of the bung, thread a chord and tie to the backstay. Drill two bolts to hold the winch bracket in the forward bulkhead. Align the winch with the fairleads. The bracket was just a 90 degree moulding cut to shape around the winch and enough flange to brace it securely to the bulkhead. Drill a hole for the mast ram and fit. Bond a strengthening post in the foredeck around the jib tack area to stop foredeck lifting under load. Don't fit the radio pot until correctors have been fitted. El último trabajo de montaje en el barco. Que necesitas Barra de timón para timón Conector del timón al servo Servo Receptor Batería LiFeP04 batería 1600mA (más de un día completo de vida). Puede usar tan solo 900 mA si necesita ahorrar peso. Interruptor de encendido / apagado a prueba de agua Cabrestante RG y escuadra de soporte. El proceso Taladre un agujero en el mamparo delantero en el lado izquierdo para el interruptor de encendido / apagado eléctrico y ajuste. Coloque el cabrestante en el soporte de soporte y ajuste suelto al mamparo. Haga un agujero en el soporte cruzado para el servo y coloque y pase el cable a la olla de radio. Haga un agujero en la parte superior de la olla de radio justo debajo de su marco de soporte y pase el servo y el cable del interruptor de la batería al interior de la olla a través del orificio. Conecte el servo del timón al canal 1 del receptor. Conecte el conector del cabrestante al canal 3 y coloque el tercer cable suelto del cabrestante en una clavija central redundante, por ejemplo, el canal 5. Conecte el interruptor al cabrestante. Utilice conectores XT30 siempre que sea posible o obtendrá suficiente potencia para el cabrestante. Si enciende la alimentación, con un poco de suerte, un transmisor encendido moverá el timón y el cabrestante. Hay una sección completa sobre la configuración del transmisor de radio. AQUÍ . Si todo funciona, está listo para colocar el ajustador de hojas sin fin. La hoja sin fin es un trabajo complicado. Compré el cabrestante con una polea de retorno autotensante, es decir, está equipado con un resorte que evitará que la línea de la hoja se afloje. Encuentre los puntos finales del cabrestante moviendo la palanca de control en el transmisor completamente hacia arriba y hacia abajo. Utilizo hacia arriba para la hoja completamente hacia afuera y hacia abajo para completamente adentro. Dejar la palanca de control hacia abajo (hoja adentro). Tome dos líneas, hágalo pasar por los pasamanos del mamparo y corra hacia el cabrestante. La línea exterior tirará de las hojas hacia adentro y la interior dejará que la hoja salga. En el cabrestante, la polea inferior tiene una hoja hacia adentro, la polea de resorte superior está hacia afuera. Con la línea exterior, ate la polea inferior y envuelva 5 veces la polea. Ate la línea interior a la polea superior, pero solo use una y una medias vueltas. Manteniendo las líneas ligeramente tensadas para que no pierda las vueltas en el cabrestante, ahora puede montar el cabrestante de forma segura. La línea exterior corre a lo largo de la cubierta y a través de la polea de popa cerca del estay trasero en el lado de estribor, se enrosca hacia adentro y luego se ata a un anillo de acero inoxidable de 5 mm a 2 "del bloque de polea. La línea interior (hoja hacia afuera) se puede tensar, sentirá la resistencia de la polea autotensora y se atará al anillo de acero inoxidable para que el sistema sin fin esté razonablemente apretado. Las hojas principal y del foque se atarán al ring. El sistema de escota de mayor sin fin está completo. If you turn the power on, with any luck a switched on transmitter will move the rudder and winch. There is a whole section on the setup of the radio transmitter HERE . If all works you are ready to fit the endless sheet adjuster. The endless sheet is a fiddly job. I bought the winch with a self tensioning return pulley, i.e it is fitted with a spring that will stop the sheet line going slack. Find the end points of the winch by moving the control stick on the transmitter fully up and down. I use up for sheet fully out and down for fully in. Leave the control stick down (sheet in). Take two lines and thread through the bulkhead fairleads and run to the winch. The outer line will pull the sheets in and the inner will let the sheet out. On the winch the bottom pulley is sheet in, the top sprung pulley is sheet out. With the outer line, tie off on the lower pulley and wrap 5 times round the pulley. Tie the inner line to the upper pulley but only use one and a half turns. Keeping the lines lightly tensioned so you don't lose wraps on the winch, you can now securely mount the winch. The outer line is run along the deck and through the aft pulley near the backstay on the starboard side, threaded out to in and then tied to a 5mm stainless ring 2" from the pulley block. The inside line (sheet out) can be tensioned, you will feel the resistance of the self tensioning pulley and tie off to the stainless ring so the endless system is reasonable tight. The main and jib sheets will tie off to the ring. The endless mainsheet system is complete. El final resulto Next Section The optimised Alternative build

Weighing and check measuring the IOM Pesar y comprobar medir el barco Pesar el barco con el aparejo A con todos los accesorios como si fuera a navegar con cubierta parches colocado libremente en el barco. Debería pesar 4 kg. Repase las reglas de la clase y compruebe medir el barco. Setting the boat to float on its lines What you need to know Bring your fully rigged boat up to weight with correctors Float the boat on a calm day on a fish pond, pond, or deep bath and set correctors to put boat on its lines Check measure against class rules The process Weigh and check measure Weight the fully rigged boat dry. Add two equal weight correctors on either side of the fin box at its centre to make up the weight of the boat to 4 kg . Float the boat and check to see it sits on its lines. You may have to adjust the position of the correctors. Once the boat is on its lines, mark and bond the lead corrector in with silicon sealer. I have heard that some people put a small amount of lead in the radio pot so they can make adjustments to the corrector weight if they change a fitting. Pull a copy of the class rules from the HERE Check measure as much as you can. The one measurement you may have difficulty is with the overall length and depth from water line to bottom of fin. This is done in a special tank. Click here for Measurement and Certification Procedure Thought for the day - Getting the most out of correctors Given that we spend a lot of effort getting grams of weight off the foredeck and the mast to reduce pitching moment in a chop, I started thinking about how best to build the correctors. I am looking at roughly 400 gms of lead which I want as close to the centre of the boat fore and aft, but also as low down as possible. I looked at buying lumps of lead but ended up buying lead shot which I could fashion into shape with epoxy. My goal is to make correctors as flat as possible so they sit in the bottom of the boat. The picture shows crudely the difference flat correctors might make. Small I grant but a difference none the less. The top image shows the impact of square lumps of lead at the fin box when the boat is heeled over. The bottom picture show a flattened corrector. The arrows represent the centre of mass for each corrector. The flattened version has a centre of mass lower than the square corrector and in theory when the boat is at an angle the flattened corrector provides more righting moment. All these weight changes I have made, are small. 11gms out of the jib boom, 30gms out of the mast and main boom, 200gms out of the hull of the boat, bigger and lower correctors. It all adds up to more righting moment and less pitching moment. There is easy access to the base of the fin box if you take the winch down. It was easy to lay in two strips of velcro on each side of the hull and place the correctors on this. So now they are fixed but moveable. Once you identify the correct balance point you can fix the correctors in permanently. Moulding the correctors using epoxy and lead shot which you can get off eBay. Means you can shape your correctors anyway you like Configurar el barco para que flote en sus líneas Lo que necesitas saber Lleve su barco completamente equipado al peso con correctores Haga flotar el bote en un día tranquilo en un estanque de peces, estanque o baño profundo y coloque correctores para poner el bote en sus líneas Compare las medidas con las reglas de la clase El proceso Pesar y controlar la medida Pese el bote completamente equipado en seco. Agregue dos correctores de peso igual a cada lado de la caja de la aleta en su centro para compensar el peso del bote hasta 4 kg. Haga flotar el bote y verifique que se asiente en sus líneas. Puede que tenga que ajustar la posición de los correctores. Una vez que el barco esté en sus líneas, marque y adhiera el corrector de plomo con sellador de silicona. He oído que algunas personas ponen una pequeña cantidad de plomo en la olla de radio para poder hacer ajustes en el peso del corrector si cambian un accesorio. Extraiga una copia de las reglas de la clase de AQUÍ Compruebe la medida tanto como pueda. La única medida que puede tener dificultades es la longitud y la profundidad totales desde la línea de flotación hasta la parte inferior de la aleta. Esto se hace en un tanque especial. Haga clic aquí para conocer el procedimiento de medición y certificación Pensamiento del día: aprovechar al máximo los correctores Dado que nos esforzamos mucho en quitar gramos de peso de la cubierta de proa y del mástil para reducir el momento de cabeceo en un chuletazo, empecé a pensar en la mejor forma de construir los correctores. Estoy viendo aproximadamente 400 g de plomo, que quiero lo más cerca del centro del barco hacia adelante y hacia atrás, pero también lo más abajo posible. Busqué comprar trozos de plomo, pero terminé comprando perdigones de plomo que pude moldear con epoxi. Mi objetivo es hacer que los correctores sean lo más planos posible para que se asienten en el fondo del bote. La imagen muestra crudamente la diferencia que podrían hacer los correctores planos. Pequeño, lo concedo, pero una diferencia de todos modos. La imagen superior muestra el impacto de trozos cuadrados de plomo en la caja de la aleta cuando se escora el barco. La imagen inferior muestra un corrector aplanado. Las flechas representan el centro de masa de cada corrector. La versión aplanada tiene un centro de masa más bajo que el corrector cuadrado y, en teoría, cuando el barco está en ángulo, el corrector aplanado proporciona más momento adrizante. Todos estos cambios que he realizado son pequeños. 11gms fuera del aguilón, 30gms fuera del mástil y botavara principal, 200gms fuera del casco de la embarcación, correctores más grandes y más bajos. Todo se suma a más momento de enderezamiento y menos momento de lanzamiento. Hay un fácil acceso a la base de la caja de la aleta si baja el cabrestante. Fue fácil colocar dos tiras de velcro a cada lado del casco y colocar los correctores en este. Entonces ahora son fijos pero móviles. Moldear los correctores con epoxi y perdigones de plomo que puede obtener en eBay. Significa que puedes dar forma a tus correctores como quieras Pensamiento del día: instale los correctores. Hay un fácil acceso a la base de la caja de la aleta si baja el cabrestante. Fue fácil colocar dos tiras de velcro a cada lado del casco y colocar los correctores en este. Entonces ahora son fijos pero móviles. Moldear los correctores con epoxi y perdigones de plomo que puede obtener en eBay. Significa que puedes dar forma a tus correctores como quieras. Últimos trabajos antes del lanzamiento El barco está completamente equipado, los tres aparejos se configuran utilizando la vara de medir del aparejo y los ajustes de inicio anotados en mi lista de verificación. El transmisor de control de radio se ha revisado internamente para garantizar que no haya cables que toquen los cardanes de las esquinas y las varillas del timón. Cualquier contacto puede crear un comportamiento aleatorio muy extraño en los cardanes. La configuración de la radio en el transmisor es la lista de verificación. Se comprobó el peso del barco para los 3 aparejos y correctores instalados en los aparejos B y C. Estos fueron los insertos de mástil de 10 g que compré en Sailsetc. Debido a que ahorré 20 gramos en el equipo A, puedo usar 20 gramos menos de correctores en el equipo B y C. También pegué con cinta alrededor del mástil en el nivel de la cubierta inferior para detener cualquier movimiento lateral, así como agregar una forma de talón modificada para detener la rotación del mástil para que los esparcidores no se desalineen al lanzar con el mástil. Vea la imagen inferior. El peso total del barco con cada aparejo es de entre 4004 y 6 g. Los 3 parches de la cubierta están en su lugar, por lo que está lista para su primera salida el lunes, que es mi cumpleaños. Gran momento para salpicar el barco. Los siguientes pasos son armar un programa de entrenamiento y navegación para construir para los Nacionales y cualquier evento indicador. Un par de imágenes a continuación.

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. Ubicación de algunos propietarios de la OIM en todo el mundo I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 1) My Thanks to Craig Richards to allow me to copy his guide that he posted on facebook following his win at the 2023 Global Championships at Fleetwood . Mainsheet bridle: The mainsheet bridal is not your friend. It can burn out winches if incorrectly set and if that does not spoil your race then it has sneaky ways of snagging your mainsheet, which it will always do at the bottom mark when you are in the lead! I think I had one of the loosest mainsheet bridle setups at the Globals. I will show detail later of what the bridal looks like with each of the rigs, but its not something I adjust. It stays the same for all rigs. Mine looks like this: The first snag is probably only on the older boats. The bridle eyes were originally a bit larger and not always screwed all the way into the hull. Because they stood slightly proud, the mainsheet could loop around them and snag. This could be fixed by tacking away if lucky, but often the boat will stall head to wind and it is very difficult to recover from quickly. If you don't realise what has happened and continue to sheet in and hope for the best, the winch is stalled and may overheat etc. The fix is to screw them in all the way and fill the recess with epoxy glue. This is about as close as I will ever sheet in. There is never less than about 5mm between the bridle eye and the boom fitting. The starboard bridle line is slack, so this is as high as you can get the bridle eye off the deck. There is almost no vertical mainsheet tension so the winch has very little load and fine adjustments to the sheeting angle are possible without affecting the mainsails leech tension. The port bowsie should be hard against the deck eye, but I mucked with it for demo purposes and have not fixed to my preference yet. With a straight run for the jib sheet, it can get a bit snagged against the mast. Yes, jib fairlead is glued as well. I'll do a section on each rig, but the further forward you move the jib boom sheeting eye the further the jib will go out on the run. I've set mine so that both the main and jib reach 90 degrees at the same time on the runs Sheeting: This is how I run my sheets. It's not optimum from a friction point of view, but there is a tradeoff between reliability and the jib setting slightly differently on port and starboard tacks. If I only use the front jib sheeting deck eye then the jib boom goes slightly further out on the starboard side. It's a small amount, which is reduced by going through both eyes ... at least I think it does. I put the jib sheet through the port bridle deck eye to keep it away from the mast. In light conditions the thin yellow line (0.20mm) gets snagged between the boom gooseneck and the deck. It's only slightly sticky, but enough to stop the jib going out on the runs occasionally. Its not necessary for stronger conditions, but I stick to one way of routing all my sheets just to keep life simple. The A rig: I'll be posting some measurements, so just want to show what my masthead crane looks like as some of them sit a bit proud of the plastic mast insert. I think the standard sail templates have too much luff curve. I have a 'custom' luff curve from Catsails that has about 2mm less mid mast. I run the top of the sail at the bottom of the silver band and the attachment point to a second hole in the mast crane. I think the top of the sail behaves better with this setup. I run the mast gate as far back as possible and never touch it. It stays like this for all rigs. The DF seems to want as much aft rake as possible. So I rake it as far as it will go. I would rather take luff curve out of the front of the sail than bend the mast further. Too much mast bend means you need more vang on the beat, but this can lead to too tight a mainsail leech on the runs Mast Rake: With no Jib Forestay tension I want the mast curve to match the front of the main sail as far as possible. The curve I settled on was to tighten the backstay until the second attachment point from the bottom was just behind the mast (NB, remember I have about 2mm less luff curve than standard). This was easily repeatable without needing rulers etc. I then marked the backstay adjustment lines and always adjust straight to this point. I never change the backstay again except at the very top of A rig I might add a mm or two. The measurement from behind the bow bumper to the front hole in the masthead crane is 1140mm. This may seem further back than the rigging guides, but remember there is no forestay tension at this point. With a flat edge behind the mast, the mast curve is only 3-4mm, which is less than I was expecting.

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

How I built a male plug Construye el enchufe El proceso es el mejor explicado por Brad Gibson, en su video Construye el tapón del casco pero hay algunos matices que cubro a continuación: Haga clic en cualquier imagen para ampliar la imagen. 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

Asembling the rig Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works Pensamientos iniciales sobre plataformas Desde hace algún tiempo, he considerado qué equipo comprar. Aquí están mis pensamientos y decisiones actuales sobre una plataforma para el nuevo barco. Mástiles Hay 3 tubos y un diseño ranurado para elegir, hasta donde yo sé. Sailsetc groovy y tube, Housemartin tube y Pierre Gonnet tube. Actualmente tengo palos y velas de Housemartin y estoy muy satisfecho con su desempeño. Compré un kit de aparejo A, B y C el año pasado y todos eran competitivos, sin embargo, leí que los mástiles PG son más livianos con una flexibilidad similar y, habiendo navegado yates, sé que el peso en alto puede marcar la diferencia en un chuletazo, así que lo estoy voy a probar algunos y comparar pesos y rigidez y ver cómo funcionan. Después de una charla con Potter Solutions, decidimos que 15 mm o menos es el predoblado óptimo para el equipo A. Si lo hace, puede distorsionar fácilmente el mástil comprimiendo el mástil a medida que saca el precurvado con el tirante trasero, además de introducir una curvatura incontrolada entre los spreaders y los sabuesos e introducir demasiada tensión en tiempo de luz. Debo admitir que siempre he sufrido un poco de inanición por debajo del perro y me preguntaba si esto era causado por el precurvado. Auges Elijo plumas de pluma ligeras (eje de flecha Easton - 2515. 25/64 de pulgada de diámetro, 15 milésimas de pulgada de espesor de pared) de Sailsetc después de haber usado una antes y usaré cortes del mástil para la pluma principal y reutilizaré mis cuellos de ganso y accesorios actuales. . Una vez más, la idea aquí es optar por la sección más liviana de la proa que requiera el contrapeso más liviano. Guarniciones Utilizo un cuello de cisne con cojinetes de rodillos para la plataforma A y un cuello de cisne estándar para B y C. Utilizo esparcidores aerodinámicos, pero se cuelgan de un cable tan fácilmente ajustable. Los obenques corren a través de un agujero en la parte delantera del mástil con un tapón bowsie en el interior. Utilizo un anillo sailsetc cunningham en todos los largueros, ya que mis velas Housemartin tienen tensión de grátil y ojo cunningham. Paño Como mencioné anteriormente, uso velas Housemartin y acabo de comprar un nuevo juego A para este año. En cuanto a la competencia, veo que BG y Sailboat RC (campeones mundiales actuales) con su vela moldeada parecen ser las velas elegidas para los campeonatos, pero podrían ser solo los navegantes que las usan. Afortunadamente, veo miembros en Emsworth que tienen ambas velas, por lo que podrán hacer una buena comparación entre las tres. Por supuesto, hay varios otros fabricantes de velas, pero estas son las tres marcas ganadoras del campeonato mundial que me han llamado la atención por los datos disponibles en este momento, sin embargo, soy nuevo en el juego y probablemente me he perdido muchas. ¿Cuál es el mejor paquete en general? La observación actual sugiere un paquete SailboatRC, ya que han ganado los dos últimos mundos y dominado otros eventos, pero el Britpop con el aparejo BG ha dominado en números y éxitos desde 2011. ¿Quién dominará en el Mundial de Croacia el próximo año? SailboatRC son velas moldeadas pioneras y ahora tienen un diseño probado y quién sabe qué más tienen en las cartas. Espero ver cómo responden otros diseñadores y constructores de velas. Geometría de foque. Todo está en la geometría. ¿Cuántos de ustedes tienen el problema de que la botavara del foque se mueva hacia un lado o hacia el otro en condiciones de calma, lo que hace que sea imposible navegar? Me he encontrado con este problema desde que boté mi primer bote. Fue solo en una discusión con Dave Potter la semana pasada que encontré la solución. Todo está en la geometría. Vea la imagen a continuación. El diagrama de la derecha tiene dos diagramas. La izquierda muestra la configuración que utilicé el año pasado. Mi línea de sanguijuela se había enganchado alrededor de los esparcidores varias veces pensé que era mejor usar una línea y atarla hacia adelante en la cabeza del foque sin darme cuenta de que esto impacta la geometría y causa que la pluma se salga de una forma u otra cuando está allí. hay poco o nada de viento. Si desea ver esto en acción, coloque la vela de proa hacia arriba, afloje su línea de sanguijuela actual y ate una línea de lixiviación suelta en el extremo de la pluma del foque. Asegúrese de que la línea sea lo suficientemente larga para llegar al punto de entrada en el mástil. Ponga el grátil y la línea de lixiviación bajo cierta tensión. Primero mueva la parte superior de la línea de baluma a la derecha del mástil (es decir, a popa) aproximadamente una pulgada como se muestra en la imagen y debería ver que la pluma del foque se acerca a la línea central del barco. Ahora mueva la línea de la baluma en la dirección opuesta, adelante del mástil y debería ver que el brazo del foque se aleja lo más posible de la línea central. Hablando con Dave Potter, me dijo que él y Deve Creed resolvieron el problema atando el grátil del foque y la línea de la baluma a un tornillo autorroscante, asegurando así que la línea de la baluma y la línea de tensión del grátil del foque se cruzan con el mástil exactamente en el mismo punto que permite el foque pluma para girar libremente en cualquier dirección Reflexioné sobre esto por un tiempo y se me ocurrió otra solución usando alambre y un moño. La línea de la baluma de alambre y el ojo del grátil del foque están unidos a un bowsie dentro del mástil. Salen del mástil y el grátil del foque se puede enganchar en un ojo hecho con alambre. Ambos entran al mástil en el mismo punto configurando la geometría correcta. Con los dedos cruzados, esto significará que el brazo del plumín se balanceará fácilmente de un lado a otro en condiciones de calma. Te avisaré al final de la semana si funciona Más pensamientos sobre plataformas La clave para la configuración es conseguir que la curva del mástil coincida con la curva principal del grátil. Si lee los artículos de Brad Gibson sobre la puesta a punto y ve las últimas entrevistas con el MYC de Central Park de Nueva York , oirá cuán precisa es su configuración. 1 No hay un uso intensivo del Cunningham 2 Sus velas son muy suaves 3 El pie principal se coloca a la misma profundidad para todas las condiciones 4 El backestay se ajustará de 2 a 4 mm solo a través del rango de condiciones. 5 Sigue sus propias medidas para comenzar la configuración. El mensaje clave aquí es tener una configuración fija. BG ha estado en este juego durante mucho tiempo y conoce una configuración precisa para ir rápido. Podemos acortar la experiencia de aprendizaje siguiendo las notas de configuración en su sitio web o del diseñador de cualquier barco en el que navegue. El Kantun tiene un conjunto similar de números de configuración e instrucciones del diseñador que se entregan con sus barcos. Otros diseñadores han hecho algo similar. Recuerde que si cuando su barco está de costado, tiene problemas con puntos duros en el grátil del principal que deben ser eliminados por un Cunningham excesivo, entonces deberá ajustar las variables disponibles para deshacerse de los puntos duros. Son: El mástil está en posición vertical Ángulo del esparcidor (y verifique que sean simétricos, es decir, su mástil no ha girado) Carnero de mástil Tensión de la mortaja Suavizar o endurecer el precurvado Si aún tiene un problema, verifique que el mástil esté recto hasta el punto de predoblado, su predoblado es progresivo en lugar de un doblez repentino. Por supuesto, si sus velas son viejas, es posible que se hayan estirado y será difícil lograr un resultado perfecto. Te mostraré mi configuración a continuación. Tendré una plataforma PG de Potter Solutions con velas Housemartin. La configuración es de usted sabe dónde. En este momento, puede tener la impresión de que soy un fanático de BG. Es porque ha reunido toda la información de configuración relevante en su sitio web y es la mejor que he visto en mis viajes por Internet, pero similar a Kantun. También tiene el diseño más cercano a un BritPOP disponible (Alternativa) para la construcción de viviendas que tengo. Para aquellos interesados en las diferencias de peso del mástil, hay una diferencia de 20 g entre el Housemartin y el PG spar. He oído que Sailsetc se encuentra en algún punto intermedio. Los pesos fueron 99 y 79 g. No he hecho una medición de la rigidez, pero estoy seguro de que alguien lo ha hecho. Ambos se sienten bastante bien. El precurvado es de 15 mm sobre 600 mm en el equipo A y de 40 mm en el equipo B con uno en el equipo C. El aparejo A y B llegó con una marca clara en cada uno que muestra el punto exacto donde comenzó el precurvado. Después de marcar usando las dimensiones del plano del barco, coloqué el mástil sobre una mesa larga. Use un par de bloques rosas de sailsetc (ver imagen) o algo similar para asegurarse de que los orificios estén en la posición correcta. Para empezar, coloqué uno de los bloques rosas y alineé el mástil para que el precurvado fuera exactamente vertical fuera de la mesa. Entonces podría perforar el hoyo del estay y alinear todo con eso sabiendo que cada hoyo estaría alineado hacia adelante y hacia atrás o perpendicular en el caso de los esparcidores. El cuello de cisne se pega con superpegamento antes de perforar y fijar con un par de cuadrados de material de parche de cubierta debajo de la parte inferior del cuello de cisne. La pluma solo necesita perforar de la misma manera que la anterior. Utilice los bloques de perforación de color rosa para alinear el precurvado con los orificios para el brazo, los obenques, los esparcidores y el cuello de cisne. Pensamiento del día - Termina las plataformas Todo lo que queda es cortar el mástil a la longitud correcta, ajustarlo al barco, agregar el backestay y el foque y luego rematar los extremos de los obenques. Para cortar el mástil a la longitud correcta, utilicé un tubo falso insertado en el orificio del mástil y marqué los niveles de la cubierta superior e inferior y la posición donde quería el cuello de cisne y la banda límite inferior. No debe estar a menos de 60 mm por encima del nivel de la plataforma inferior, pero en la alternativa es de aproximadamente 74 mm. Luego mido desde el límite inferior en el mástil real hasta la parte inferior con el mástil falso y corto. Súper pegado la cabeza del mástil y el talón (una vez que el mástil se ha cortado a la longitud correcta) para que no se muevan. Luego puse el mástil en el bote, coloqué el foque y el estay trasero y coloqué el mástil directamente en el rastrillo en el plano. Después, coloqué los accesorios en los extremos de los obenques y fijé los tornillos de aparejo al bote. La plataforma se tensó ligeramente para que se pueda colocar la tubería principal y afinar la plataforma. Un último trabajo es encontrar una manera de detener la rotación accidental del mástil. El consejo es utilizar el cuello de cisne. Desafortunadamente, los cuellos de ganso que utilizo no bloquean el mástil en su lugar, así que tendré que encontrar otra solución. Corté una pulgada de sección del mástil y luego córtelo por la mitad y péguelo con cinta adhesiva en la parte inferior del mástil con dos bridas gruesas para evitar que la sección pegada se comprima. De esta manera bloqueo el mástil en el centro y también lo empujo ligeramente hacia adelante en el escalón del mástil, lo que le da a la embarcación un mejor equilibrio. A continuación se muestran algunas imágenes del equipo B completado. Tenga en cuenta que ya no uso la atadura de cables como pivote del foque, ya que se rompían, así que la cambié por una abrazadera de brazo Sailsetc y uné la línea a la pluma con un gancho de hoja. Ahora estoy en una posición en la que puedo subir y bajar el brazo del brazo. Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails